Guest Demonstrator October 2004:
Andre Martel
Andre Martel resides in
Saint-Cesaire, Quebec, Canada.
He has taught woodturning for
nearly 20 years. His specialty is
end-grain turning with green
wood. After extensive use of a
personal version of the super
flute Side Ground bowl
gouges, ring tools and standard
hook tools, Andre began dreaming
of a tool with a versatile cutting
edge that would be more
effective in end-grain turning.
He wanted to turn large translucent
pieces primarily lampshades.
He developed the MHT (Martel Hook Tool) and had it
patented and produced. After
developing his tool he was invited
to a major woodworking congress in Grenoble,
France as the international demonstrator. While
there he met Jean Francois Escoulen who asked
Andre to give workshops to the French professional
woodturners. He did this and trained Escoulen,
Mailland, Nancey, Bidou, Guillou and sixty other
professionals as well as many amateurs. For Andre
this was an incredible human adventure and the
beginning of many friendships. Presently he offers
semi-private and group classes in his own studio
besides giving workshops and seminars abroad.
With end-grain turning, approach is completely
opposite than in side-grain bowl turning.
Andre discussed turning a green goblet with a natural
edge and a hollowed trumpet-shaped base. It is
turned thin so that most of the wood has been removed.
Therefore the remaining thin wall can
shrink without splitting. Shrinkage varies in 3 directions,
linear (1-3%), radial (3-7%) and tangential (7-15%).
This explains why a bowl becomes
oval when drying (due mainly
to tangential shrinkage). When turning
a goblet, Andre hollows the foot or
base to prevent it from splitting.
The piece (pear wood) was placed
between centers. A tenon was turned
on the top part of the piece (tail stock).
The piece was removed and the
tenon placed in the chuck. The outside
of the piece was then roughed
with the Side Ground elliptical shaped
fluted Bowl Gouge with the tail stock
in wood. A shear cut was used.
Then he removed the tail stock and
the bottom of the goblet was first hollowed
with the SGBG. The MHT was
then used to deepen the hollowing
and further refine it. The angle of
presentation of the MHT is very critical as is the axial
movement of the tool. This axial movement is in addition
to the lateral movements. A step was left over the
final foot, in order to firmly grip without breaking the
final foot of the completed goblet. (At this point the
interior of the goblet base could be sanded.)
The piece was removed and reversed in the
number 2 jaws. The top of the goblet was then hollowed
using the upper cut with the SGB Gouge.
Again, the small MHT was used to give a final cut to
the goblet interior. (The MHT is rotated in order to
keep bevel rubbing, as the cut progresses up from
the bottom. Lathe speed was about 700 rpm.
(When achieving a shear cut lathe speed is not as
important as it would be with shear scraping, as
even low rev. will leave a clean surface. Sharpening
of the MHT is done using a diamond burr (150 grit)
inside the curve of the tool and a diamond hone (600
grit) is used both inside and outside to refine the
edge. Honing might be done ten times before grinding
is again needed. The MHT should never be
used with the elbow up. If this is done a severe
catch will occur and the MHT may possibly snap off.
The outside of the goblet was then turned.
A U-shaped fluted bowl gouge was used. (It is
ground like a roughing out gouge and acts like a
skew without the severe catches. It is ground at ±
40 degrees.) Goblet wall thickness was determined
by both calipers and translucency. The piece was
removed from the chuck and re-chucked gently on
the final base of the goblet. (Now the wall thickness
of the goblet base could be measured as well as the
depth of the goblet bottom.) The goblet base was
then completed, as was the small bead between the
top and base of the goblet.
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| Andre points to the heartwood of the finished lampshade that doesn't have the translucence of the sapwood.
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Afternoon:
Andre chose a 15-inch diameter piece of
poplar to make a translucent lampshade. Any light
colored wood (birch, willow, holly, hop hornbeam)
will provide enough translucency. The piece was
placed between centers, centered and balanced. A
slow speed was used and the tailstock end flattened.
Then the piece was rough shaped using primarily a
shear cut of the large SGBG. Sharpening of the
gouge was done with the Wolverine System. Andre
placed the tool 4 inches out and the angle of the jig
fully opened with the bevel flat against the wheel ( ±
65 degree ). The cutting edge of the gouge should
not be concave just slightly convex. Andre used
a cloth wheel and green compound when honing.
(He hones about 10 times for each grinding.) The
surface of the lampshade was further refined with
the Square Ground U-shaped Bowl Gouge. The
tenon was completed and the piece parted off using
the skew. The piece was reversed and the tenon,
which was deep, was placed in the chuck.
The upper cut was first used to hollow the
shade. The tool rest was at center level. (The action
of the tool [gouge] must be carefully controlled
at the proper angle [shearing].) The medium MHT
was then used always in the horizontal position
with lateral movements only to clear the left wall of
the piece, the axial rotation otherwise controlling the
cutting angle. The upper cut with the gouge travels
in the 12:00 to 2:00 positions. Shifting the MHT
counterclockwise (axial motion) will give a convex
cut. Clockwise will give a concave cut. Andre developed
his own tool rest with holes drilled to assist in
keeping the MHT in place (mainly when turning
away from tool rest). Concrete nails are placed in
the holes where needed. Andre does not drill the
center hole in a piece. He uses the MHT to form the
pilot hole it using a light rocking motion Once the
hole is established he can then proceed up the side
of the piece on a pull stoke.
The interior was then finished with the large
and medium MHTs. As the wall was thinned vibrations
increased and thus speed slowed. Sanding
could be done at this point using 180 grit.
The outside of the shade was then refined
using the bowl gouge. Thickness was checked with
the calipers and translucence. The U-shaped bowl
gouge was used to get final thickness of about three
thirty-seconds of an inch. The piece was then partially
removed from the deep tenon and the jaws retightened.
This provided more room to work at the
top of the shade. A bowl-steady would be quite
beneficial at this point. Tomorrow the shade would
be ready for sanding.
This completed a GREAT demonstration.
For complete details a DVD and VCR will be available
in the CMW library in November 2004.
--Bob Gunther
Andre's Website
More Photos of Andre's Demonstration
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